#155463  by tatittle
 Tue Jan 31, 2017 8:35 pm
I just broke a Bourns 500k w/ switch while trying to remove the knob (carefully with spoons). Whats your favorite push/pull pot? I noticed (at least some of) the CTS models appear to have no eye/hole in the switch lugs now which I speculate would be difficult for me to solder. The SPST are still old school but I want to use 1 switch to cut 2 pups to single coil simultaneously. Side note: Is Tiger's AB dual-ganged (250k/500k) tonepot like the ones I obtained in that the center indent is "10" (no load) for each value, and then clockwise turns 500k down and counterclockwise 250k down? I guess thats the only option short of push-pull.

I am too aggravated to modify the Bourns dual 500k and dual 250k pots (1 each) into a single 500k/250k pot now, so I am going with a single 500k for the Super 2's (bridge/middle), and a 250k for the SDS-1 (neck). Tried to get away with a 500k on the SDS-1 on original wiring (w/ no Wald preamp at that point) but in the neck position (with .2 cap) it was way to dark for me.

Re-wiring this Jerrified Strat without any extra routing is giving me lots of headaches this time. 1st I broke the pot after it was almost done being wired (was only trying to tighten the nut so wouldnt spin), then after a fresh bowl I picked up my cheap soldering iron by the hot side. :D :?
What a flake I am! Healing well though...dont break those burn blisters.
 #155468  by tatittle
 Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:36 am
So i think I found the reason I pulled the shaft out of the DPDT pot when removing the knob. I just read that the Bourns pots have a larger knurled shaft than the "fine" knurl of CTS pots. One website recommends getting new knobs when switching between the 2 makers, likely to avoid this very issue. No issue pushing the knobs onto the shaft, but it was a little tougher to pry it off even after I broke the shaft out. Must say the shaft pulled out quite easily leaving me cursing modern production "efficiency" lol.